Ghana has long been dubbed “the gateway to Africa”. Generally speaking, this is the country which is considered to be most accommodating to first-time visitors to the Motherland. I don’t know exactly why that is so, but I would speculate it’s due to a number of factors. For instance, as far as the diaspora goes, Ghana has strong historical ties to Blacks in North America and the Caribbean. Also, Ghana is a peaceful, steadily-developing nation, giving a good impression of what sub-Saharan Africa could be despite the economic challenges the region faces.
Historically, “the Gateway to Africa” has gone out of its way to welcome people of African descent home. For example, every couple of years Ghana hosts a pan-African festival known as PANAFEST, which has seemingly increased in popularity. Along a similar vein, the government of Ghana itself was directly involved in a recent, like-minded enterprise dubbed Year of Return, Ghana 2019. The year 2019 was chosen for this event, as it marked 400th anniversary of the arrival of African slaves in Jamestown, Virginia. Said arrival, which occurred in 1619, is generally considered as the de facto onset of the Transatlantic Slave Trade.
According to one source, the Year of Return was actually a “marketing campaign targeting the African-American and diaspora market” more so than a cultural occasion per se. Either way, it proved to be a noted success on the part of Ghana. Subsequently, beginning in 2020, govvie and other stakeholders decided to expand the initiative for another decade. That effort, which is currently ongoing, has been titled Beyond the Return.
That then brings us to December in GH 2024 or more specifically this very month, December of 2024. To make a long story, beginning yesterday (December 1st) and into the middle of next month (January 15th), visitors to Ghana can enter the country without a visa. But to note, this liberal option is reportedly available specifically to other Africans as well as people of African descent, i.e. the diaspora.
To be totally honest, based on my experiences Ghana has never been a difficult country to enter. The Ghanaian system, as a whole, may be more welcoming to overseas’ travelers than it is to fellow Africans. But the people here are cool, and the government is flexible.
Ghana is a country that is able to perceive the value of the African diaspora, furthermore being in a position to capitalize upon it. So I totally support this move. It’s like showing the diaspora, which has been by and large disenfranchised from the Motherland, that Ghana actually cares. And other African countries are getting in on the act also.
December in GH 2024 endorsed events are being held throughout this month. They not only revolve around history, entertainment and travel but also the likes of business, networking and real estate. That latter topic tends to be especially important to outsiders who decide to reside or do business in Ghana.
But there is not enough officially on the slate of December in GH 2024 to take up entire days and rightfully so, because the true appeal of Ghana is not found in organized events. Visitors need to get out and see the world, so to speak. And here are five must-see destinations that all foreigners, especially those from the diaspora, should strongly consider making an effort to tour during a visitation, no matter how briefly you may be around.
ELMINA CASTLE
There are a number of castles in Ghana that used to be slave forts, where captives were held before being sent on the Middle Passage. As a tourist attraction, none is as popular as Elmina Castle. This is in part because the structure, which is very well built, has been effectively transformed into sort of a spacious museum. However, there are also some tighter corners which remind visitors just how poorly the captives were treated. That is besides the tour guides being well versed in the castle’s harrowing history.
The car ride to the castle is also quite memorable. Not only will you (coming from Accra) traverse miles of highway that are right on the scenic coast of the Atlantic Ocean. But driving through the congested Elmina town itself is quite an experience. Moreover, Cape Coast Castle, another popular former slave fort-turned-museum with its own unique experiences, isn’t too far from Elmina. So visiting both in a single trip is very much possible.
ARTS CENTER
Let’s keep it real. Some of the poverty you’ll see in Ghana, especially as someone from overseas, can be shocking. But it should also be taken into context.
The Arts Centre is a practical place to witness the type of economic disparities present in this country. On one hand, you have this bustling market that caters largely to foreigners. The centre is also surrounded by high rise office buildings and Accra’s central business district. But on the other hand, all you have to do is look around to see that life isn’t easy for masses of Ghanaians, as also manifested in the aggressiveness of some of the centre’s vendors.
The reason why the Arts Centre is a practical place to immerse yourself in the Ghanaian landscape is because, it being a vast marketplace, you’ll inevitably come across products that you’re interested in buying. So you’ll get experience in some good ol’ fashioned, Third World haggling. Secondly, the Arts Centre happens to be right on the coast of the Atlantic. And the lower part of the Centre, nearer to the ocean, is a cool place to chill and get your smoke and drink on or whatever. Moreover, this locality tends to be replete with Rastafarians, who usually have more experience dealing with foreigners than average locals.
While venturing deeper into the Arts Centre, you may see things that are hard to stomach. But if you’re able to bear it, you can brag that you were really ‘bout it in GH.
W.E.B. DU BOIS MEMORIAL CENTRE FOR PAN-AFRICAN CULTURE
W.E.B. DuBois was a prominent African-American civil rights’ leader who later in life settled and died in Ghana. He was a personal friend of with Kwame Nkrumah, the first President of Ghana.
Du Bois’s Ghanaian home has been transformed into a cultural center, a meeting and meditation type of place. It serves a prominent role in the diasporan presence in this country. For instance, it is the meeting grounds of the African-American Association of Ghana. Furthermore, it has an exceptional, even if somewhat small, pan-African library.
The Du Bois Centre happens to be right across the street from the U.S. Embassy. Both are located in Cantonments, one of the swankier parts of Accra. American citizens are encouraged to register at the embassy upon arriving in Ghana. So if you’re such an individual and do decide to take that route, it’d be a sound idea to also use the opportunity to visit the DuBois Center also.
The Du Bois Centre may not be must-see as far as all visitors to Ghana are concerned. But it’s definitely a place that African-Americans and West Indians should strongly consider hitting up.
UNIVERSITY OF GHANA, LEGON
This particular entry may be influenced by my love of educational settings. But there’s something about the organization of institutions like the University of Ghana that nullifies longstanding perceptions of Africa lacking civility.
The University of Ghana is the only place in Accra I can readily think of where you can stroll for long distances upon paved streets without having to worry about traffic. And as universities tend to go, the different departments are pretty open to entertaining visitors. Moreover, if you’re a younger visitor, this can be a safer place to meet people of your same age as opposed to, say, a nightclub.
The University of Cape Coast is also a very cool place to visit. There are a number of such sites in Ghana that offer peaceful, educative respites from the hustle and bustle of the cities that surround them.
AKOSOMBO
More generally, what I’m recommending here is that you visit one of the greener, mountainous areas of the Eastern Region.
Places like Aburi, Koforidua and Somanya (pictured above) are honorable mentions in that regard. And the Eastern Region is just a relative stone’s throw from Accra.
But the reason I put Akosombo at the top of the list of such localities is because first of all, it runs along the shores of the breathtaking Lake Volta. Secondly, it’s perhaps the most-developed city in Ghana. And third, it’s also home to the Akosombo Dam, as well as the swanky Volta Hotel, both of which are considered major tourist attractions.
KUMASI
Kumasi is Ghana’s second-most popular city, after Accra. It’s a large, distinct metropolis with more of a cultural flair.
Kumasi is home of the Ashanti, the most-prominent kingdom/tribe in the country. Relatedly, there are a number of attractive sites dedicated to their culture and history that one can visit. Besides that, Kumasi, to reiterate, is a modern African city.
Kumasi tends to be on the itinerary of just about every tour of Ghana. However, one’s ability to really enjoy the place may depend on the length of your visit. In other words, you’d need to be able to spend at least a night or two therein to really appreciate it. Hitting up a couple of tourist sites and then jetting the same day wouldn’t be ideal in terms of gathering just how immense and contemporary Kumasi actually is.
KWAME NKRUMAH MEMORIAL PARK & MAUSOLEUM
Kwame Nkrumah is the greatest hero in the history of Ghana. As such, his gravesite has been transformed into a serene, well-maintained tourist attraction and an excellent facility if you want to learn more about his life or just enjoy a little peace and quiet. There are very strong rules that are enforced upon entering the Mausoleum, making it one of the cleaner, more peaceful locations in Accra.
The Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum also happens to be in Central Accra, right next to the Arts Centre. That’s to say that it’s pretty easy to get to, just a few minutes’ drive from the airport, furthermore being a site surrounded by a number of other noteworthy attractions.
Racism, as we know it in the West, does not exist in Ghana. So I want to ensure all non-Black potential visitors to GH that a visa-free initiative specifically targeting the likes of Africans should not be taken as an affront to other groups. Remember that, in the grand scheme of science, we’re all of African descent. And Ghana is one of those types of places that everyone in the world needs to visit.